Visiting Lisbon with a Toddler

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There’s a reason Lisbon, Portugal is always in the Top 5 best European cities to visit with a toddler: it’s a beautiful and charming city, with plenty of activities to keep you and your little one entertained, most people speak English, and the food options are a-plenty! It truly is my favorite city in Europe to visit with our toddler daughter, Luna. We just wrapped up 12 days in Lisbon which brings us to a total of 25 days over the past year. We were there when she was 23 months and she is now almost 3. Both experiences were so fun and memorable. Keep scrolling for my tips on where to stay in Lisbon, how to get around, what to do, where to eat and much much more.

Remember, you can always book a call with me to chat itineraries + toddler travel. Happy to help!

Everyday Pursuits Family in Lisbon

Visiting Lisbon with a toddler. Location: LX FACTORY

Where to Stay in Lisbon with a Toddler

As you know, we are big fans of staying in AIRBNBS with our daughter vs. hotels (see why here). The only reason I would suggest NOT doing an AIRBNB in Lisbon is if you are going in the summer months. Most AIRBNBS don’t have AC and it gets pretty hot and uncomfortable sleeping at night in the higher temps.

I would argue the best place to stay in Lisbon with a toddler is the Lapa or Estrela areas. They are accessible to all the touristy things but not in the thick of the crowds or rowdy areas, very walkable, close to a main metro stop, and the local cafes and restos are perfection. 

These are the two AIRBNBS we’ve stayed at in the last year:

• Lapa 3 Bedroom with an office (see a tour on my IG) - the location is EVERYTHING! So close to some of the best cafes and because it's towards the bottom of the hill, there's not much “climbing” required compared to other areas. 10 minute walk from Time Out Market, 5 minutes to a big metro stop, and 12 minutes to the water.

• Estrela 3 Bedroom with sweeping views (see a tour here) - also just so so gorgeous and spacious. It’s higher up on the hill, so requires a little more treking, but you are SO close to Estrela Park which is every parent and toddler’s happy place.

Our favorite street in Lapa: R. Santos-O-Velho

Best Cafes in Lisbon with Kids. Location: Mila Brunch

Getting Around Lisbon with A ToddlER

For Airport pick-ups and transfers, Welcome Pick-Ups is my go-to. They are reliable and you can schedule a car in advance. We use this service in almost every European city we travel. The Lisbon airport is about 20 minutes from the city center without traffic.

There are many forms of public transport, ubers, TukTuks, and taxis which means there’s no reason to rent a car. Parking in Lisbon is a nightmare so I highly recommend exploring on foot (we walked 95% of the time) or utilizing one of the above methods of transportation. Reminder that if you UBER, they require a carset. We always travel with this one.

Lisbon is hilly - think San Francisco - be prepared to get in a good workout when walking and pushing your toddler around. We started using the Doona Trike at 1 yr. old and it has traveled the world with us. (see it in action on my IG). You definitely need some sort of wheeled device to get around because a toddler will not have the stamina to make it without one. During our time there I spotted a lot of Yoyo strollers and other umbrella-like-travel-strollers. You not only need something small to get around the narrow streets but also something that can easily fit on a train or fold up at a restaurant. The restaurants and cafes in Lisbon are small, not like we are used to in the US, and there is nowhere to fit your stroller except right near or under your table.

Riding the Metro Train from Lisbon to Cascais with our Toddler

Best way to get around Lisbon: walking. We use the Doona Liki Trike with our Toddler.

What to do in Lisbon with a toddler

Walk walk walk! You will stumble on parks, cafes, and tons of beautiful things to do and see. On my OUT OF OFFICE profile I have our daily itineraries all saved so you can see exactly what we did during our 12 days there. Some high level things:

• Take Advantage of the Parks - Lisbon has plenty of parks and green spaces, which are perfect for letting your toddler burn off some energy. Some of the best parks to visit include Parque Eduardo VII, Jardim da Estrela, and Parque das Nações. Many of these parks also have playgrounds, so your toddler can play and make new friends. Most parks also have cafes with food and adult beverages; the park culture is really just top notch!

• Visit Kid-Friendly Attractions - Lisbon has many kid-friendly attractions, such as the Oceanarium, which is home to over 15,000 marine animals. Other attractions that toddlers will love include the Lisbon Zoo, the Lisbon Toy Museum, and the Science Museum. We went to the Oceanarium last year on a rainy Lisbon day and it is probably one of the most beautiful aquariums I have ever been to. Highly recommend!

• Take a Day Trip - If you have the time, consider taking a day trip from Lisbon to one of the nearby beaches or towns. The beaches of Cascais and Estoril are only a short train ride away, and are perfect for a day of sun, sand, and sea. (see our day trip here). You could also visit the historic town of Sintra, which is home to beautiful castles and palaces, including the famous Pena Palace. We did another beach day to Costa de Caparica (see our day here) and our daughter loved it. Is was the only day that we needed to take an Uber (30 minutes) and it was totally worth it.

• Make sure to visit:

  • Alfama especially the Miradouro Santa Luzia (see our day here)

  • LX Factory which is great shopping, walking, and food (see our day here)

  • All the delicious breakfast spots (see recs below)

  • Do a beach day (see my 2 recs above)

Alfama lookout point in Lisbon

Luna walking at the beach in Caparica about 30 minutes outside of Lisbon city center

Eating out in LisboN with a Toddler

Every restaurant we encountered was kid friendly with high chairs, kids menus (most of them at least), and all have menus in English. The dining culture is much different than in Italy and France. You can have dinner at 5 or 7 or 10pm! Every spot that we dined at with Luna is saved to my OUT OF OFFILE profile here, but I’m including her faves below:

Luna Approved Restaurants:

Breakfast

• Mila - Mila was a 2 minute walk outside our apartment. We’d go every morning at 8:30 AM to their walk up window that opened 30 minutes before their store did. We’d get a croissant and a coffee and sit and enjoy the people heading on their way to work. We stopped in for breakfast a few times as well. They have a full menu, a spot for you to work on your laptops and a small little grocery area where you can buy local wines, their homemade granola and some fruits and veggies.

• Heim - Heim was right on the corner of our street and essentially our front patio. A couple doors down from Mila, this spot was great for iced coffee and a steal for a brunch. Theirs comes with toast, scrambled eggs, juice, a coffee and a sweet dish. The one on the menu when we were there was a churro french toast and it did not disappoint.

• Seagull Method - This spot is owned by the same group that does Heim cafe and our beloved Kefi Bistro. They really know how to do it.

• Café Janis - A cute spot right next to the Time Out Marketplace. We went for breakfast and then finished over at the kids park right next door. It’s super close to the water and central to all the things you’d want to walk to around Lisbon.

• Nicolau Lisboa + Cascais - Nicolau is owned by the same husband and wife duo who opened Amelia (another brunch place we stopped at during our trip in 2022). It’s a cute dog themed restaurant with breakfast and lunch dishes that are super delicious. They have a kids menu and high chairs. They don't allow laptops at the tables here.

• Fauna + Flaura Santos - One of our first stops during our first trip to Lisbon and up there for my favorite food offerings. Their pricing is cheap and they’re food is so delicious. There are plants everywhere and it’s a great place to stop in at any time during the day for a coffee or a meal. Computers are allowed during off peak hours.

• Break. - Tucked in a back street of Lisbon, this spot is super cute and cozy. Friendly waitstaff, cold and fresh juices and a big menu with lots of options for a filling breakfast.

• Hello, Kristof - Very chic, strong coffee and a limited breakfast menu but one that will still be filling enough to pass for a good breakfast.

• the mill - Another great breakfast spot tucked in the back streets of Lisbon. Very close to Hello, Kristof and Break as well as another Dear Breakfast. The blueberry pancakes were perfect for Luna and their other offerings were hard to choose from because they were all so good.

Brunch at Fauna and Flora in Lisbon

Outside of Cafe Janis in Lisbon

Lunch/Dinner

• Kefi Greek Bistro - Our favorite restaurant in Lisbon. Both trips we went multiple days (this trip we probably went more than 5x?) and it hit the spot every time. Luna loved the greek meatballs from the kids menu and devoured the french fries. Mama loves their white wine called Genesis for only €5.50 and we never left without ordering the pistachio ice cream and fried doughnuts. Other menu items that deserve recognition are the Saganaki cheese, Greek salad and any of the Souvlakis.

• Princesa - We took a trip across the bridge to Caparica where there is a whole strip of beach lined with beach clubs (all the ones that came recommended to us you can find below in the FAQs section). Princesa was one I found through a quick search and it was so cute and fun. They had a high chair for Luna and plenty of options for everyone to enjoy.

• Leonetta - The best spot for Italian that we found in Lisbon. We ordered half the menu in hopes to bring home leftovers for Andy since he was working only to find out that they don’t do take away. Don’t make the same mistake we did, but do make sure to order plenty for the whole table to sample and eat it all.

• Lupita - We never sat in to dine at this spot, but it was a great option for a quick lunch on UberEats. It’s a great pizza spot that is as reliable as it is quality.

• Quiosque Ribeira Das Naus - This kiosk spot is right on the water and so beautiful to sit and have a glass of wine and a small snack. Luna and I sat here and listened/danced to the music while I had a drink and she had some pizza.

• Time Out Market - A spot you need to check out anyways, this food hall has every cuisine you could want with high chairs available on the sides of the hall. The only trouble you’ll have is deciding between all the options. There is a bar in the center of the hall that has all kinds of good drinks and wines that they’ll let you sample before buying. Outside is a kids park and another food kiosk that you can sit and listen to live music around 3PM every day.

One thing that is really incredible about Lisbon is the prices. Everything is relatively in expensive from the groceries and eating out, to Ubers and wine. It is much cheaper than most of Europe in our experience and significantly cheaper than Los Angeles or Miami.

LX Factory, Lisbon

The best Greek food in Lisbon: Kefi Bistro

FAQs

What about urgent care or ER visits?

We got well acquainted with the hospital system in Lisbon this trip. My husband actually went to the hospital 3 times during our 12 days there.

The first time was sort of planned. In the states he couldn't get three months worth of two of his prescriptions so he took it to a pharmacy in Lisbon and the pharmacist told him to go to the hospital and get a doctor to write him a Portuguese prescription for it.

That experience was super easy. I think from walking into the pharmacy, going to the hospital to get the prescription, and going back to the pharmacy to get it filled was 2.5 hours total. It cost him $0 to see the doctor and $200 to fill 3 months worth of 2 separate prescriptions.

The 2nd and 3rd time were to the "ER" for what we now know is a ruptured bakers cyst (but thought it could be DVT) for blood work and an ultrasound. Both took a long time - I think he was there each time for 3+ hours even the 3rd time when he had an appointment for the ultrasound. Total cost was $300 for those trips. All in, pretty decent given we aren't citizens and don't pay into their healthcare system. I’m super grateful that all the doctors and nurses were welcoming and kind. We have travel insurance for catastrophic things like airlifting and all that jazz but not for stuff like what Andy went in for. I have actually been in a handful of Portuguese expat groups for over a year (when we started seriously discussing a move) and know that the Portugal healthcare system is overburdened, especially post Covid. It is super common for people moving to Portugal to get private health insurance. The price is very very inexpensive compared to the US.

Do a lot of people speak English there?

Almost everyone we have encountered speaks English in Lisbon. And everyone is super friendly and welcoming towards kids!

Does Luna ever lose it? In travels, how to manage meltdowns if any?!

Of course, she's a toddler! I don't think managing meltdowns while traveling is any different than managing them as if you were in a grocery store in your hometown, you know? My perspective: parenting is parenting no matter where you are in the world - which is why I am super pro-travel with littles.

Have you noticed prices changing? Haven't been since 2018! It was so cheap then!

Slightly more expensive than last year (2022) but still cheap compared to LA or Miami. Bottles of wine for $17 and delish burgers for $9, can’t beat that in my opinion.

What are the best beach clubs near Lisbon?

There are so many beach clubs along the Costa de Caparica. We ended up going to Princesa for a gorgeous lunch on the water but hear high remarks about these ones as well:

• Casa Reîa

• Praia Irmão

• Dr Bernard’s

• Lorosae

• Oceans

I love this website for scoping out details on Lisbon beaches. It’s super helpful!

Tips for visiting Lisbon with a Toddler

Happy to help in any way! You can always book a call with me to chat itineraries + toddler travel. And find more travel tips on IG: Everydaypursuits or Everydaypursuitsfam. We’re headed to France now on the next stop of our 3 months in Europe. Follow along! xx - Ash

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